Tag Archives: europe

No Love Connection Here

What is it that keeps us from falling in love? Is it just our initial judgment of looks? Maybe just a needed haircut or a couple fewer tattoos would have made a difference. Is it just a bad first impression? Perhaps it’s just a little too loud or the crowds of people that seem to always be hanging around. Was it just too soon after a previous affair that you weren’t quite over? Maybe you just couldn’t stop comparing to that recent favored love. Was it just the season? Were you so burnt by the summer heat that you just couldn’t motivate yourself to see beyond the obvious exterior characteristics?

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Acropolis Hill- Athens, Greece 

Perhaps it is was just bad timing. You just weren’t ready to start a new relationship. Perhaps it is actually something within your own self. You find yourself in a bad mood and look for something to blame it on. Perhaps you are just being unfair. If you aren’t willing to put in the effort, how can love ever develop?

 

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Roman Agora

 
It’s difficult to understand why, but I never developed a love connection with Athens. Judging by the number of people in the full-to-the-brim cafes in the Plaka neighborhood or the excited crowds of people shopping in the famous flea market or the endless tour groups making their way up Acropolis Hill to see the wonders of the Parthenon, I am willing to accept that it had more to do with my sad mood after having just left Paris.

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Changing of the Guard

Judging from the way the people gather at the top of Mt. Lycabettus to watch the city light up as the sun sinks into the not too distant sea or the excitement showed by the tourists that gather to watch the changing of the guard in Syntagma Square or the happy faces of the young backpackers who gather every night on Areopagus Hill to watch the Parthenon brightly bathed in light until it appears to hover over the city, I am willing to accept that maybe my lack of love was due to my weariness that comes with traveling too much.

 

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Acropolis Hill

 
Judging from the way the music flows from the cafes and bars every evening in the Psyrri neighborhood or the smiles on the faces of the young people who gather in Monastiraki Square to watch the commotion or the enjoyment of the couples in the romantic cafes along the alleys just down the hill from Anafiotika, I’m willing to accept that it was probably just me.

 

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Plaka Neighborhood

 
We had a nice apartment, top floor of a 10 story building, with a balcony and great view over the northern part of the city. We only had a couple of block walk to the great metro system that takes you anywhere you want to go quickly and efficiently. We had the convenience, as seemingly everyone in Athens does, of great bakeries that sell all fashion of delectable goodness on every corner in the city. Prices of all manner of items were definitely fair and smiles were abundant everywhere we went.

 

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Athens from Mt. Lycabettus

 
We did have good days. We climbed the famous hills around the city, always looking for the best spot to enjoy the view of the green hills and bright white buildings below. We enjoyed ourselves touring the Olympic stadium area in the north of the city. We walked along the sea in the port city of Piraeus and loved the rooftop views from the beautiful National Library. The museums we went to were good and the remnants of great civilizations that are visible around every corner and under every step kept us interested daily.

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2004 Summer Olympics Site

Probably the heat was a major problem. Blazing late summer temperatures made walking unpleasant. Probably the end of season crowds diminished our enjoyment of areas that with a few less tourists would have been better. At times it seemed like all of Europe must be roaming the narrow streets of the historic downtown area. Probably our tiny budget made it impossible to escape the heat and commotion of the city. If we could have managed to board a ferry out to some of the beautiful islands Greece is so famous for, I’m certain our mood would have brightened.

 

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Plaka Bar/Distillery

 
Whatever the reason, Athens won’t be remembered as my favorite place I have visited. The Acropolis alone makes this a must-see destination for every serious traveler, so I doubt the city needs or cares about my opinion. As I observed, too many other people come here every year and have a great time. The city has 3 millennia of history waiting to be discovered and Athens will continue to draw crowds to see its wonders no matter what I thought for the relatively short time I visited.

 

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Acropolis Nights

 

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Seven Straight Years of Travel

In July of 2011, we made the decision to leave our comfortable jobs in Northern California to see the world. We had always enjoyed travel and for years had dreamed of traveling full time. Careers, family and other commitments took precedence over adventure and we could never really find the right time to make our move. Our youngest son had recently left for college and had made the decision to stay at school for the summer. Our house felt empty and we realized our lives had become routine. We really wanted an adventure. We wondered if now was the time.

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Istanbul, Turkey

We weren’t old enough for traditional retirement. We had been good savers for several years and had a decent amount of savings. We both had a small pension from previous jobs. We definitely weren’t rich but if we could live modestly and watch our money, we felt we could manage. We exchanged luxuries for experiences and made our decision to take on the world.

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Fenghuang, China

We would travel slowly, staying in cities and towns for longer periods than most tourists have time for. Hopefully, it would give us an opportunity to observe local life in a unique way. We would live in small apartments and cook the majority of our meals at home. We would live like residents instead of visitors.

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Amsterdam, Netherlands

Within a fast-paced two weeks, we had rented our house, sold or given away most of our things and put a few collected treasures in storage. Our children thought we were crazy, although growing up as travelers themselves, probably understood. We packed our car with the minimum amount of things we thought we needed and headed south to Mexico, our first destination.

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Mendocino, California

It was challenging in ways we never expected. Languages, customs and traditions were different. We found we needed to rely on each other more than we ever had in our lives. Every day was different from the last. Food, weather and lifestyle were radically different. We did not have the large budget that most tourists use to overcome challenges. With patience, we began to discover that most everyone in the world has more commonalities than differences. Our map skills got better and our world expanded. Eventually, we went further south, crossing into Guatemala and the rest of Central America. We spent almost two years traveling over 30,000 miles of some of the roughest roads in North America. Stopped only by the end of the road in Panama, we saw the biggest towns and smallest villages and learned a new language and a new lifestyle. We learned to live for experiences and not possessions.

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Essouira, Morocco

We did miss our children. They enjoyed coming to visit as often as they could. We found inexpensive flights are plentiful these days. Because we had rented apartments and cooked at home it was not that expensive to have them spend time with us wherever we were. Video calls and Facebook allowed us to stay connected better than we ever expected.

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Rome, Italy

Eventually, we realized that our new lifestyle could take us nearly anywhere we wanted to go. With the use of websites like Airbnb, we found affordable apartments easily accessible everywhere in the world. Discount airfares were plentiful with minimal shopping. Our world suddenly was greatly expanded. We put our car in storage and left for Asia. We learned to use public transportation and frankly walked the shoes off our feet. We literally learned to live with what we could carry. If we couldn’t fit it into our backpacks, we didn’t need it.

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Procida, Italy

Europe seemed unattainable because of costs. We found that by choosing small apartments and taking advantage of excellent public transportation we could get by even on our small budget. Of course, we loved seeing France, Italy and Spain but the surprises came when we saw less touristed but equally interesting countries like Poland, Czech Republic, Croatia, Romania and Ukraine. Even exotic locations of Turkey, Morocco and Israel were possible for us.

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Sedona, Arizona

 

Photographs became our main souvenir of the places we visited. While we still enjoyed perusing the many markets we encountered, our vagabond lifestyle did not permit us to buy as often as we would have liked. We enjoyed looking at photographs of the most beautiful places on earth and figuring out ways that we could capture the images for ourselves. Rather than countries leading us to photographs, we found the photographs leading us to countries. We spend many an evening on a pristine hill overlooking unbelievable cityscapes transformed as sunsets illuminate our newly discovered surroundings.

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Joshua Tree National Park

We have just begun our 8th consecutive year of travel. Despite our glacial pace, we have now traveled to 47 countries on 5 continents and have no intention of stopping. We have returned home for major occasions such as weddings, graduations and a few celebrations and even had an opportunity to see some of our own country. The farther we travel the more we realize there is to see. The world is an incredible place and our life would not have been complete without sampling a good chunk of it. Our lives have forever been changed for the better. We appreciate what we have seen and look forward to each new place with great anticipation. Isn’t that how life is meant to be lived?

Kyoto, Japan
Kyoto, Japan

Taking a Second Look

There seem to be two types of people in the world. Ones that enjoy the comfort and security of an established routine and those that desire difference and change and are always seeking something unique. When choosing a restaurant, the former will always know a great restaurant with a favorite dish that they enjoy immensely every time they have it. The latter will always seek a different flavor or preparation from what they have chosen before. When picking a radio station, the former probably have their favorites set in memory. The latter pushes the seek button and only stops when they hear something that suits their current mood.

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Montmartre Cafe

I imagine these two types of people probably also pick travel destinations in the same way. Some love their tried and true spots and return as often as they can. The convenience and familiarity of a previously visited hotel with a friendly and well-known staff provides the comfort of knowing what they will get. Others desire to shake things up and usually opt for different or unknown paths on their journeys. They seek the new smells, tastes and views that offer the excitement of the unknown and the unpredictability that comes with it.

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Night at the Louvre Museum

A big part of our travel experience has been discovering new places. Seeing something new and exciting adds to the sense of adventure and increases the intrigue that any destination offers. I guess this is why we have generally not returned to many places in our travels. However, at times our love of a special place (and probably a really, really cheap ticket) has changed our normal behavior. Such it was that we decided to take a second try at Paris.

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Sinking Houses of Montmartre

Four and a half years ago we visited Paris for our first time. We absolutely loved it. We are often asked to name our favorite place we have traveled to and while our answer often changes, Paris remains constantly high on the list. Evening walks by the river, mornings sipping coffee in a classic sidewalk cafe and afternoons visiting the well known and world famous monuments of the city are well cherished, often remembered and frequently discussed. Paris would have lived in our memory for years to come without ever visiting again. But the opportunity to purchase a 225 dollar ticket from Oakland to Paris changed our minds. We wanted to head back to Europe and we just couldn’t resist the crazy low price.

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Notre Dame

We again chose to stay in the Montmartre area of town. When we envision Paris in our mind, the images of tiny winding alleys, tree-lined streets, quaint houses and the incredible city views of Montmartre are what we see. Yes, it is over-touristed and probably doesn’t represent the best of Paris discovery but we find that if you squint your eyes just right you can almost see Renoir, Monet or Degas painting a windmill or beautiful Parisian girl in a flowering garden. We again stayed in a tiny, rooftop apartment under a zinc roof in a typical 1880’s 7 story Paris apartment building just down the steep stairs from Place Tertre, the historical center of the area.

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Notre Dame

Almost daily we took walks to hillside parks or braved the breath-stealing stairs to access the commanding views from Sacre Coeur which towers above the cities highest hill. In the cool of the morning before the tourists arrive or in the evening as the sun is sinking and the lights come on were our favorite times to visit. We had time to discover the leafy parks and hidden pathways rarely frequented by visitors. We made a mental list of the benches that provide the best shade and breezes to enjoy the homemade snacks we usually prepared for our daily journeys.

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Pretty Parisian Street

Our apartment was tiny and without fans or air conditioning and the scorching summer sun made being inside uncomfortable during the day. Even at night, we were forced to leave open the windows. At first uncomfortable, we learned to appreciate the sounds of our neighborhood. We heard crying babies in the mornings, children playing in the courtyard during the afternoon, early evening cafe conversations and the sounds of lovers throughout the night. We were soon able to identify what our neighbors were having for dinner by the wonderful smells of food being prepared nearby. The heatwave finally ended with a massive 30-minute blast of marble sized hailstones that sounded like the end of the world on our thin-skinned metal roof. Even after the cooler temperatures returned, we kept our windows open to stay tuned in to our surroundings.

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Musee D’Orsay

Quick access to the incredible Paris Metro is the secret to fully experiencing the city. Despite the crowded cars, lack of air conditioning, frequently smelly passengers and the apparent use of every hidden corner as a urinal, we love the Paris Metro. Nothing brings you closer to the real Paris than the Metro. It is convenient, quick and takes you anywhere you want to go for a very appealing price. Even when it at it’s worst and seems unbearable, someone playing a violin or accordion will enter the car and make all the bad evaporate instantly. Returning to street level amidst the grandeur of the Parisian boulevards from the Metro never gets old. The combination of fresh air, classic architecture and stylish commotion is always a satisfying start to any days journey.

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Galleries Lafayette

We are thankful to have stayed for a month on both this visit and our last. We consider ourselves lucky to have the time to see the city at a more relaxed pace. Paris has a lot to offer and it takes time to appreciate it correctly. While even a couple of days here can be enjoyable, we often feel for the families that are rushing through all the big name sites too quickly, especially on a scorching summer afternoon. Red faces, crying kids and spent adults with stressed faces doesn’t create the best picture of people enjoying their days. While someday they may look back with a romantic vision, it doesn’t seem like they are having the time of their lives.

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Montmartre- Sacre Coeur

I think most people think of Paris as being an expensive city. We find it to be quite affordable. By selecting a small apartment, preparing most meals at home and taking advantage of inexpensive public transportation we have no trouble staying on our tight budget. Staying longer also has benefits of taking advantage of the many free days offered by Parisian museums and major sites. Enjoying the breathtaking art at the Musee D’Orsay on a free day was incredible. We arrived first at the museum and made our way directly to the impressionist area. Standing face to face with a Van Gogh self-portrait, Monet cafe scene or Renoir portrait before the crowds arrived was something we will never forget.

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Paris Opera House

A second visit also gave us an opportunity to see things we missed the first time. We enjoyed walking along the abandoned railway that has been turned in to a beautifully landscaped elevated walkway called Promenade Plantee (or Coulee Verte). Strolling through Le Village Saint-Paul in the Le Marais area gave us an untouristy view of what Paris looked like centuries ago. Shopping the busy open-air market area of Place d’Aligre gave us a chance to sample the best of Parisian craft foods for non-touristy prices.

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La Defense

We enjoyed a long journey to the La Defense area of Paris that most visitors don’t get a chance to see. Hypermodern skyscrapers and futuristic art-filled parks create an atmosphere most would not associate with Paris. On the hottest of days, we also came to appreciate the elevated terraces that provided some breezy relief along with their incredible views. The terrace at the Galleries Lafayette department store gives incredible views of the Paris Opera, La Madeleine and other attractions of the 2nd arrondissement. The 9th-floor observation deck of the Institut du Monde Arabe showed unprecedented views over the River Seine and Notre Dame Cathedral.

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Eiffel Tower Sunset

Of course, just wandering the streets of this historic city provides the true Parisian experience. The streetside cafe next to the park in front of the grand Saint Sulpice church, the epicurean delights viewed through the windows on Rue Mouffetard or having lunch on the shaded steps of the Pantheon are memories that will always be reflected upon.

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Parisian Houses

We will always seek out new and exciting destinations in our travels. We will always find fascination with new places. Discovering something for the first time will always be the highlight of our best journeys. However, as we found with our 2nd trip to Paris, some destinations are worth taking a second look at.

There is a place…

There is a place along the waterfront where people gather during the day. In the small park with the palm trees, near the fishing boats, the old men spend cool mornings to discuss politics, sports, share gossip or tell stories of the days gone by. They talk passionately, voices raising and lowering like the tide, using their hands to emphasize important points. Sometimes during the heat of the afternoon, when shade takes on a premium, the benches fill with small groups of men enjoying tall bottles of cool beer. If it is a weekend, someone may produce a guitar and impromptu singalongs occur. Everyone participates, their voices harmonizing perfectly as they resonate through the trees and out over the beautiful harbor.

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Split Sunset

 

In the evenings, when the sun is preparing to retire behind Marjan Hill, people, mostly young, begin to fill the nearby pier. They gather in pairs or small groups to watch the marble buildings of the historic old city turn orange as the sun retreats. They sit among the fisherman’s nets as the sky changes colors and the buildings begin to reflect in the calm water of the turquoise harbor. Lights come on along the promenade that hugs the harbor in front of the ancient Roman palace that makes up a large part of the old town area. The sound of laughing voices, clinking bottles and lapping waves mix with the bustle of nightlife coming from the promenade to create the perfect mood as day turns into night. There is a place along the waterfront in Split, and everyone should see it.

There is a place in a tiny square near a church that has been used for an untold eternity. The square is perfectly aligned to take maximum advantage of the shade of the stone buildings that surround the square and the gentle cooling breezes that make their way from the nearby sea. A quiet café with tiny tables occupies a prominent portion of the square. The chairs are arranged side by side on one side of the table, in the Parisian way, to give the best opportunity to watch the well-dressed passersby. Perfectly chilled mugs of frosty local lager are served. The smell of grilled seafood comes from nearby. A view of the towering fortress that dominates the center of the tiny town is perfectly framed above the square. The frosty lager helps build the courage to attempt, or celebrate the success of, a climb of the ancient ramparts.

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Omis, Croatia

 

The fortress, used by pirates in ancient times, presents a sweaty challenge for those who attempt the climb. The narrow trail twists steeply upwards from the tightly woven alleys of the red roofed town below. Signs warn of hazards the steep stairs may present to the old or out of shape. You pass through an arch and begin your ascent, tightly gripping the poorly spaced rails that must be used to pull yourself up the steep marble steps. A difficult ladder completes the challenge for those who desire to see the commanding view from the top of the narrow parapet. The effort is rewarded for those who accept the challenge. Breathtaking views over the town, sea and nearby beaches are unforgettable. The deeply blue River Cetina splits the town in two as it flows between the hard rock mountain canyons that lead from inland towards the immense sea. There is a place in the town of Omis, just south of Split and everyone should see it.

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Krka National Park

 

There is a place along the raised wooden walkway above the wetlands where nature’s beauty will overtake you. It will happen after the crowds of bus tourists thin and you find yourself alone, staring across the crystalline water, fish swimming in small groups below you. They fight for position in a calm area between the flowing grasses of the countless streams. The bubbling water flows from an unseen place between the trees that thickly surround the area. A tiny, multicolored finch chirps loudly and melodically from a branch above, attempting to be heard above the white noise gurgle of the flowing water. The sound of mighty flowing water comes from somewhere beyond the trees and drowns the outside world making you feel alone in this Eden like setting.

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Krka National Park

 

Further along the path you find tiny lookouts through the trees which give brief previews of the grander visions to come. Descending steep stairways, waterfalls surrounding on both sides, you pass the swimming area that attracts so many bathers on these hot early summer days. A wonderful waterfall provides a superb backdrop for the bronzed swimmers. It is the last of several successive falls that cascade down the mountainside. Leaving the swim area you begin your ascent up the steep mountains steps on the opposite bank. You will be rewarded with successively superb views as you take advantage of the convenient overlooks along the way. The most impressive stop of all was created for a long dead emperor, the cement extension giving perhaps the ultimate view of the falls. There is a place along the boardwalk in Krka National Park and everyone should see it.

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Split Streets

 

There is a place that takes ones breath away, not only from the effort necessary to reach it, but also from the astounding view which presents itself to those who make the effort. It is reached after an early morning ferry ride in the calm waters of the Dalmatian coastline. Split’s towering bell tower slowly drifts into the distance as the ferry threads its way through the islands to your destination. Perhaps you choose to enjoy the sunshine on outside decks or stay below to enjoy a cool drink. Docking in Stari Grad, you hurry to catch a waiting bus. Past the vineyards, olive trees and rows of fragrant lavender the winding road offers jaw dropping vistas along the stunning Adriatic coastline. The harbor appears like a postcard vision as you descend toward it. Stunning sailboats rock gently in the crystal harbor as sun kissed crew busily address morning chores.

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Hvar Town

 

Enjoy a refreshing drink along the promenade or perhaps a perfectly prepared seafood snack of only the freshest ingredients. Approach the stairs of the hill slowly, as there are many. Pass through the arched gates of the walled fortress and begin the ascent. More stairs await so keep your pace. Follow the switchback through the pine trees and herb garden enjoying increasingly incredible views. When you reach the fortress head straight for the flag that waves briskly at the top. Step to the edge and be amazed. The harbor spreads below, perfectly framed on three sides by gorgeous red tile roofs. In the distance a chain of islands leads outwards, each with sandy coves and dark green trees. Boats anchor in crystal waters or create V shaped wakes as they weave their way through the waters.  In the distance, the mountainous island of Vis sits in a cloud bank seemingly floating above the ocean below. There is place at the top of the fortress in Hvar and everyone should see it.

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Hvar Harbor

 

We have been travelling for in Europe, Asia and Africa for 18 straight months. 2 ½ months of that time has been spent in Croatia. When we share our stories with people we meet along the way, invariably one of the first questions we are asked is what our favorite place has been that we have visited. It is really not a question that is answerable, but we usually mention France or Italy or Thailand. I truly believe that after our excellent month in Split, we may have to begin our answer by saying, “There is a place called Croatia and everyone should see it.”

Waiting for Spring

A biting chill rides the frozen wind that crosses the esplanade in front of the castle. Visitors tuck closer behind the ancient ramparts hoping to find a protective lee, a moment of relief from the sand-like frozen mist. It proves fruitless as the gusts swirl and twist as though they originate from every direction. The ancient castle is perched high on its volcanic outcrop and looms mightily above the city below. When viewed from the streets of the lower city on stormy days like this, the castle appears to be floating in the clouds, sometimes visible and sometimes not.

The sound of a lone bagpipe carries strongly upward from the streets of the New Town far below. Its distinctive sound, so engrained in the culture of this part of the world, can fill the heart with longing and melancholy. Yet, on days like this, the sound penetrates the weather, and provides the hopefulness and inspiration to make the best of what the day might bring. Muted streetlights cast shadows on Princes Street, the wide boulevard below. Double-decker buses carry late commuters along the moist streets. Pedestrians stride briskly along the broad sidewalks, past ornate Edwardian storefronts, wasting no time getting to their destinations. It’s late March and winter still hangs heavy over the city.

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Victoria Street

 

 

If gray is a color, then no city has cornered the market better than this. Starting from the sky and looking down toward the cobbled street stones on this stormy day, the shades seem uncountable. Common vocabulary terms of light gray or dark gray don’t do justice to describe the lack of color. You often find yourself reaching for less used descriptors. Ash, platinum, gunmetal, charcoal, nickel, gray-green, blue-gray, asphalt and battleship become common terms. You may discover yourself reaching for more, perhaps taupe or puce uncomfortably roll across your tongue.

The architectural history of the city is easily traceable as you walk downhill from the castle along the high street toward the royal palace. In medieval times nearly the entire town was located along the wide street now called the Royal Mile. Only small parcels of land were available next to the road running along the natural volcanic rock spine that flows downhill from the castle. In ancient times these small plots were massively developed with some of the tallest and most densely populated buildings anywhere in the world at the time. Impressive stone facades line the street. Built to stand up to the elements and impress, they spread their broad shoulders high above the street.

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Edinburgh Castle

 

On cloudy days, the gothic spires of the many ancient churches along the mile literally reach skyward into the clouds. St. Giles is the most famous. It provides a welcome break from the weather on a stormy day. Towering arches rise high above the pews, softly but colorfully lit by the immense stain glass windows that fill the church. Although fairly modern by this church’s standards, the ornately carved Thistle Chapel inside conjures images of Knights and Kings in times past.

Numerous tiny alleyways called ‘closes’ are located along the entire length of the Royal Mile. They lead to tiny courtyards surrounded by large buildings that provided crowded housing for the early citizens. Rich and poor mixed together in these tenements. When passing through these arched passageways on a stormy night or gray windy day, it is easy to see where favorite Edinburgh authors Arthur Conan Doyle, Robert Louis Stevenson and J.K. Rowling found inspiration for Sherlock Holmes, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, or some of the darker passages of the Harry Potter books. The cold drafts, dark shadows and foggy mists can inspire a chill in anyone’s dreams.

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Edinburgh from Calton Hill

 

The stormy days and chill filled nights may force the visitor indoors. This is not necessarily a problem as Edinburghians have created a wealth of indoor activities to chase away the gray of winter. A host of world class museums, as nice as any in Europe, seem to be around every corner. The National Museum of Scotland is amazing and requires multiple visits. Visits to the National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, Museum on the Mound and National Gallery of Modern Art can easily fill a day. The Writers Museum and displays at the National Library are interesting and provide excellent afternoons indoors. All are outstanding and all are free.

Cafes, Pubs and Bars are always filled with friendly people who are willing to have a chat. Stylish, well informed citizens are proud of their country and heritage. Coffee, Tea, Gin, Beer and of course Whiskey each have loyal devotees who are willing to share their knowledge with the less informed.

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Edinburgh

 

Time passes and the gloomy skies eventually give way and spots of blue sporadically appear. Almost magically a few yellow daffodils are noticed as you pass the towering Scott Monument along Princes Street. The next day you notice a few pink or white flowers in the budding trees. Recently turned flower beds begin to fill with colorful flowers in the abundant parks of the city. Window boxes are hung out on windowsills of palatial Edwardian townhouses adding a welcome softness to normally stern facades.

It is time to head up the hill to Queens Park, the undulating grass covered hilly area behind Holyrood Palace. Take an easy hike around Salisbury Crags or perhaps follow the young and fit to the top of Arthur’s Seat for commanding views over the entire city and all the way to the sea. The cities different periods of development are noticeable, roads growing wider as your eyes travel from the dense inner city outward to the surrounding countryside.

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Dean Village- Edinburgh

 

Another sunny afternoon can be spent viewing monuments on Calton Hill which towers over the inner city and provides the best views if you are lucky enough to catch a sunset. The nearby seaside town of Leith is an easy bus ride away. The once gritty town depicted in Trainspotters is slowly (and perhaps grudgingly) giving way to gentrification. Perhaps a tour of the retired HMS Britannia, the former Royal Yacht of Queen Elizabeth on a sunny day will give you an idea of the excitement surrounding a royal visit.

Sunny days also bring opportunities to purchase an inexpensive day pass on public buses for trips outward into the beautiful green countryside that is found north of Edinburgh. After crossing the choppy water of the Firth of Forth, narrow two lane roads lead the way through wooded farmlands and lush pastures. Horses, ponies, cows and of course sheep with heavy fleece ready for shearing after a long winter are everywhere. Recently tilled fields, separated by tall hedges, appear ready for planting soon.

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Salisbury Crags and Edinburgh Castle

 

A visit to Saint Andrews, the legendary home to golf, is enchanting for day trippers as well as golfers. Classic architecture of the historic city center filled with restaurants, cafes, and shops draw visitors for sunny afternoon strolling. A long sandy beach and stunning coastal walkway leads along the gray-green sea and past the ruins of an ancient castle and cathedral.

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Edinburgh

 

Edinburgh is known as Festival City. It is known worldwide for its almost never ending outdoor party that runs non-stop for most of the summer. Unfortunately we were not here to visit in the best part of the year. Nevertheless, once we adjusted to the hour to hour weather extremes that make up Edinburgh’s early spring, we found the city to be one of our favorites. Any challenges or frustrations encountered with the weather were easily overcome with an extra layer of clothing or an interesting conversation with one of the warm hearted citizens. Most assuredly we will return one day. This is a four season area of the world and surely each is worth seeing.

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